Tip: If it turns out your paste is conductive, only use it if you are confident you will not apply too much. Don't worry about spreading it out - the waterblock will spread the paste out when you tighten it on. It's likely to be of the non-conductive type (though it's worth double-checking), so go ahead and put a small amount, roughly the size of a small pea, on the center of the GPU. Your waterblock will also come with a tube of thermal paste. Then, cut the thermal pad for the mosfets and coils according to the manual of your waterblock, and place them as instructed. The memory pads will likely be pre-cut, so grab some tweezers and carefully place them on the memory modules around the GPU, making sure to remove the protective plastic off each piece. Your waterblock will come with thermal pads to cool the memory and VRM circuitry. When you eventually upgrade to a newer graphics card, you may want to take your waterblock along for the ride, and your old GPU won't work without cooling of some form. Make sure you keep all the screws in a safe place, preferably a small plastic bag, so that you can keep them with the cooler in case you ever decide to put it back on later. Twist the cooler gently to the side rather than trying to pull it straight off. Note that some graphics cards use a form of thermal glue that may require a bit of heat to loosen up. If it requires too much force, look to see if there are any screws you might have missed. With the required screens removed, the cooler should pop right off, though it might need a small nudge. Some things will differ from one manufacturer to another, and from one cooling design to another, but in general, the process is the same.Īround the rear of our EVGA card, there are a significant number of tiny screws to remove, and it can be helpful to remove the front I/O bracket too - for our card, a lip at the top was blocking the cooler from removal, so we detached it. Disassembling the graphics card is fairly easy, but you'll want to be patient.
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